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Hiking with RP

 

The sound of footsteps and hiking poles making pockmarks in the dirt mixed with the chatter from the group that had just completed a 17.2 km. (10.7 mile) hike up into the Andes mountains. Congratulations were in order for another successful hike, except this was no ordinary mountaineering group. Seven of them cannot see.

In Santiago, Chile, a metropolis of 7.2 million people that sprawls out on the foothills of the Andes, there are plenty of mountaineering and hiking clubs that seek the joy of mountain trails. But one group, coordinated by the local Fight Against Retinitis Pigmentosa Foundation (FUNDALURP in Spanish), provides an outlet for those who suffer from this group of genetic eye conditions that leads to incurable blindness.
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La Campana National Park

Being an outdoors fan and  living in Santiago, one gets the sense that Chile’s coolest natural wonders — such as Torres del Paine, San Pedro de Atacama, and Easter Island — are too far away. However, Chile’s central valley offers a myriad of options for those adventurous souls who seek a little hiking, trekking or backpacking away from the smog-ridden air of the metropolis.

La Campana National Park is one such refuge, filled with trails, and situated at a mere two hours from Santiago. The park lies within the coastal mountain range and one can retrace the footsteps of Charles Darwin, who in 1834 visited the summit of Cerro La Campana from where  awe-inspiring panoramic vistas stretch from the Andes to the ocean. One side of La Campana also houses spectacular reserves of Chilean Wine Palm forests, some of the last palm forests of this threatened species.

This past weekend, I went with my girlfriend and some friends on a camping trip to La Campana. Aside from the a little rest & recreation from the concrete jungle, one of my objectives was to experience, learn about and explore the park’s vistas and photographic opportunities. It was a sort of scouting mission to figure out how and what to do on subsequent multi-day backpacking trips. After a two-hour bus ride from Santiago to Olmué, we arrived mid-afternoon at the Granizo sector from where the 7km. (4.35m) trail to the summit of Cerro La Campana begins. We pitched the tents and made camp, followed by a leisurely stroll through a nearby trail.

We woke up at 5am to get an early start on the trail, to elude the hottest hours of the day where temperatures easily reach 35°C (95°F) at midday. We left basecamp at 6am and began the progressively steep ascent, passing through the misty clouds that roll in from the Pacific Ocean and cover up the nearby towns’ skies.  Once we were high enough, we took in the spectacular views of the cloud-covered valleys on our way to the base of the rocky bell that gives the mountain its name. We arrived at the summit near 1pm and aside from the crass amount of graffiti covering almost every rocky surface in view, the panoramic vista was well worth the hike.  Definitely heading back to do more photographic work in that area.

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Nike 10k Marathon

This past Saturday, over 12,000 people ran in Nike’s WeRunSantiago 10-kilometer marathon. One of them was my cousin Gloria, who is an avid athlete and who interested me in going to photograph the event.

What surprised me the most was how fast it took the top five runners to run through the city streets of smoggy Santiago. Leslie Encina came in first with 29:57 while the woman’s winner was renown Chilean marathon runner Erika Olivera came in at 34:17.  Olivera, gold medalist in the 1999 Pan American Games, commented that the timing for the event was inconvenient since 5pm is still quite warm and the pollution is worse than in the mornings, when marathons are usually run.

Regardless, a good time was had by the crowd, despite complaints from motorists about detours in traffic.  Here’s a selection of photos from the event:

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Working for the Company

Two weeks ago, I worked for the Company of Jesus, more commonly known as the Jesuits, in documenting the flash visit of the Superior General Adolfo Nicolas to Santiago, Chile.  It felt similar to photographing His Holiness the Dalai Lama’s visit in 2006, though this time I was the official photographer and had special access as opposed to being just a member of the press.

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Entabeni: Issues and Conflict

My first post on Entabeni may have left the sensation that all was good in the Bush Eden, but even that little slice of paradise deals continually with issues ranging from the transition of old agricultural fields to a managed wildlife reserve as well as larger and serious problems such as poaching.

As subtle as it may seem to the untrained eye, wildlife management is quite interesting once you learn to read the landscape and see where the work is being done. Entabeni employs Leonard Bruyns, an ecologist, to perform such tasks as transitioning fields of bankrupt bush to fields of edible grass for the various herbivores that live on the land. Bankrupt bush or slangbos (Seriphium plumosum), so called because of its difficulty in eradication thus scaring farmers for bankruptcy, is a stubborn plant that no animal will touch. Leonard is in the process of experimenting with various methods to get rid of it, ranging from the use of expensive and cheap pesticides, to placing salt licks for herbivores to trample it, to controlled burns and even manual removal of bankrupt bush and root systems. Obviously, the idea is to find the right balance between cost and efficiency.

However, the most pressing problem for Entabeni is the constant danger of poaching — of flora and fauna alike — and adopting security measures to prevent this from happening. Early on in the course, everyone was alerted to be on the lookout for unidentified aircraft, usually helicopters that may fly overhead. Since Entabeni features a luxurious golf course with a helicopter service, we quickly learned how to identify this local helicopter that occasionally flew by. But at any given time, the thump-thump sounds of distant helicopters caused us to perk up our ears and almost literally drop what we were doing to attempt to catch a glimpse of the aircraft.

Photo by Glenn Fleishman

Photo by Glenn Fleishman via Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/glennf/20342176

Most people associate poaching with large exotic game animals though there also exists poaching of plants, as well seen and felt in Entabeni, where the very rare Eugene Maris cycads faces constant threat of being cut down and smuggled away. The cycad is a group of plants whose ancestors date back to at least 250 million years and many of the world’s species of cycads are under serious threat of extinction. Unfortunately, we were only able to see a few cycads from afar with the class, so I have no pictures of these magnificent plants.

Meanwhile, rhinoceros poaching in southern Africa is a definite and real problem that has recently been on the rise lately after a time of relative submission. At the time of this writing, 209 rhinoceros have been killed in South Africa this year alone in the name of stealing the horn which is exceedingly valuable in its principal market of China for supposed medicinal and ritual uses. In neighboring Botswana, the current president Ian Khama and his father Seretse Khama, the ex-president, have long had a passion for conservation and have thus employed the military in all-out war against the illegal poaching of wildlife. Through the Botswana Defense Force, poaching has decreased, unlike in South Africa, where anti-poaching units are only part of a small solution to a much bigger problem. Conflicting legislature in South Africa also permits poachers to find legal loopholes in everything from legitimate hunting and purchase of wildlife to using diplomatic immunity as a way of smuggling out exotic wildlife.


Thus, there are a variety of anti-poaching methods including de-horning rhinos and publicizing it so that potential poachers will know it’s not worth it as well as hiring anti-poaching units and even the most basic option of just not having rhinos. As hard to believe as it may be, even de-horned rhinos have been poached, just to get that last bit of horn, revealing just how desperate the poaching industry is to attain them. Legally, anti-poaching units must present evidence of poaching activity if they find a poacher. What’s surprising is that the poacher cannot be shot or killed on site, as in countries like Kenya.

Unfortunately, the poaching business is also a dirty trade for the poachers on the ground, since many of them are paid a mere fraction of what the horn is valued on the market and most of them accept this easy money because they have families to support and children to feed. The middlemen and the bosses are the key players in this illicit trade, though as long as they can send out dispensable men to the field, taking them out proves to be almost impossible.

As you may be able to tell, I’m quite interested in this topic and have begun research for use in future photojournalistic endeavors. I believe it’s a story that needs to be told and gotten out to the public. If every country in Africa that houses rhinos needs to have a hard-handed military approach like Botswana, I’d be for it.

Rhinos quickly became my favorite animal after spending time in the bush with these majestic animals. And after watching a presentation on poaching with graphic images of dead rhinos lying in pools of blood and orphaned baby rhinos standing next to their dead mothers, I felt a strong call to know more about this topic and see where I could contribute to the cause of saving these threatened animals.  I don’t want these wonderful beasts to meet the same fate of so many other animals that have met extinction. I don’t want the children of future generations to ask, “Daddy, what were rhinos like?”

Entabeni: The Way of the Bush

When my father invited me to join his University of Connecticut African Field Ecology class on a trip to Entabeni Nature Reserve in South Africa, I couldn’t say “Yes!” fast enough. He’s been leading field classes to South Africa for several years, fulfilling his childhood dream to see Africa’s largest mammals and this year, a spot opened up for me to join him.
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Working for AmeriCares

This past weekend, I was on assignment in Angol, Chile for AmeriCares, the US-based humanitarian organization. It was the final visit to the field hospital that AmeriCares donated to the city of Angol, thanks to the financial support of the GE Foundation and MetLife. The assignment consisted of documenting the six modular tents that house the maternity and pediatric ward of the town’s public hospital which was left heavily damaged after the massive earthquake on February 27th.

It was my third time heading to Angol, a town of roughly 50,000 nestled beside the Nahuelbuta National Park. On the first visit, the earthquake damage was apparent simply walking down any of the central streets; rubble piled on sidewalks in front of buildings and houses that had cracks running throughout the walls. It had the air of a town that had been shook fiercely and even over a month after the earthquake, still found rubble to expel from collapsed structures. My job then was to document the technicians from BluMed, the company that fabricates the field hospital, who directed a small team of Chilean military recruits in the rapid deployment of the tents.

The second visit occurred a couple of months later and Angol started to regain its lively small-town bustle as the capital of the Malleco province. Life was seemingly back to normal despite large fenced off areas and new construction sites to replace fallen buildings. Much to the surprise of myself and Claudia (my lovely assistant and fiancée), the pizza place we had enjoyed on the first visit had been demolished and only a zinc-plate fence hid an empty property space between its neighbors. We had eaten at a place marked unsafe and ready for demolition… and lived to tell about it! This visit was about documenting the hospital for its inauguration while important local figures met with AmeriCares staff to discuss the present and future of the donation.

This visit aimed at photographing, filming, interviewing and gathering multimedia material of the field hospital running in almost full capacity. A few pieces of equipment were still being shipped, but overall, babies were being born, doctors were caring for patients and one tent had even been transformed into an Intensive Care Unit.

Below, a short selection of images taken in Angol’s field hospital dedicated to maternity and pediatric wards and an ICU.

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The (almost) 50mm Challenge

This past Friday was Virgen del Carmen Day, the most important religious holiday for the patron mother of Chile. The most remarkable show of religious fervor takes place in the north of Chile, in a tiny town that balloons from 800 to several thousand during the Festival of La Tirana.

Alas, I didn’t head out to La Tirana this year, instead I decided to cover the events at the National Sanctuary in Maipu, a borough of Santiago. But I wanted to challenge myself so it wouldn’t be as easy as grabbing the Canon 5D with her inseparable lens, the venerable 24-70mm f/2.8 L.

The challenge was set: Photograph the two days of festivities using only one lens and one body.

Nah, I wanted to go back to my photo roots, where I began with an old black brick of a Minolta x700 film camera and the standard 50mm lens that it came with. So much excellent work has been done with a 50mm field of view that I wouldn’t be able to secretly complain in my head that I didn’t have the right gear. In fact, David duChemin‘s motto came to mind: “Gear is good, vision is better.”

Problem is: I don’t have a 50mm prime lens at the moment. So I grabbed my 28mm f/1.8 and stuck it on my trusty ol’ Canon 40D, giving me an effective field of view of 44.8mm, close enough to 50.

The challenge was set: Photograph the two days of festivities using only one lens and one body. A call to basics set out to provoke my eye as well as any habits — good or bad — that may have developed from years of reliance on zooms. This is a brief selection from the two days of documentation.

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Lanalhue; La Tercera – Tendencias

A week ago I had some photos published in La Tercera, illustrating an article on Lanalhue Lake, a lake located in the Bio Bio region. (more…)

Review of “Safari: A Monograph”

As if by coincidence, while preparing for my upcoming trip to South Africa, David duChemin comes out and publishes “Safari: A Monograph” from his Print and the Process series of downloadable ebooks.  As he rightly notes, this ain’t your typical how-to guide on photographing a safari in Africa. (more…)